Fernando Hidalgo, one of the fifth-generation proprietors currently at the helm, explained to us that very little has changed at the bodega since its inception in 1874. No flare, no techno-wizardry, just careful handling of fine wine and the resilient patience to let it develop into something more sublime. Even the Olorosos begin their lives with some flor influence (or at least the encouragement of biological development) before each barrel pursues its destiny* and as a result, the Emilio Hidalgo house style tends towards wines of elegance and levity.